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Index – Culture – A pearl on the Bratislava road

It is possible that the name Samovar espresso on Bratislava Road was inspired by the Soviet-Hungarian friendship. Perhaps this name provided protection from all vile attacks, because in the era of the Assamese he dared to express his strong displeasure with the performance of a pub, saying that coffee and tea were forged. But it is also possible that the samovar was supposed to remember earlier Czech times and was just a symbol of quiet civil resistance.

In any case, the former samovar is now being revived under the name Babka.

The area is full of gourmet venues, evoking the most beautiful times of tranquility. Mostly inhabited by residents of the area, it is worth a gastronomic trip. An island in the great Nihil. There is no other residential area in the city where the residents are the main beneficiaries of local businesses.

Babka thrives in this supportive medium. As for its culinary character, it loosely carries modern Levante cuisine. Dozens of types of appetizers and shakshuk, and some of the main dishes are North African inspired. Very friendly interior, curvy, change of level, the facility can be felt particularly supportive of family and multi-children events. Maybe it’s just about access to the bathroom – a hairpin – that’s not very hospitable. Polite young waiters – not a few of them – manage incoming guests. An attractively private place with a casual atmosphere.

After a cup of Gift Prosecco, I like a homemade Jewish egg, and a hot roasted tomato soup with pistachios and roasted beets with goat cheese.

Jewish eggs are good if you do not feel sorry for the fat, it is better to have goose fat, but there may be a lot of duck fat, and mustard is also missing, but it is a little unsalted. It is also important to have an equal ratio of yolk and protein, in which clumpy protein prevails, which is an unforgivable sin. However, the subtlely acidic seasoned red onion brings it all back together, and the juicy pastry is luscious, fluffy, and crunchy. I did well.

A thick stew made with roasted tomatoes saves lives, and the introduction of pistachios conjures up a bit of ordinary magic. More greens will make it better, and it wouldn’t hurt to have a bit more spicy, the discrepancy between acid to sweet ratio could be more pronounced, but that’s just kind of the “I’m associating it with the living tree” text. Don’t worry: the soup is good.

The basic beet and goat cheese blend is a classic, and a lot depends on pre-treatment of the beets and crackers, cooking, dressing and the quality of the goat cheese. The beets are meant to be fried, and have a decent texture, but pickling them a bit weak, they can be bolder in olives, pomegranate sauce and other citrus fruits, and you can get more greens. Goat cheese is a commercial preparation with a crumbly, coarse texture and not very interesting taste, which is slightly dry after heat treatment. I was disappointed that I expected so much more, and with a bit more insistence, richer seasoning, and better quality cheese, it could have easily come true.

I chose a dish called Crispy Furry Chicken, which reads like this: allspice condiment, super-crunchy fried chicken breast strips, pomegranate dried fruit coleslaw, fresh allspice, homemade aioli.

Small thin slices used to grate over chicken breasts. That’s what this is about. It is a very delicate meat that requires proper heat treatment, otherwise it dries out. Here is a mixture of spices: pepper, coriander, allspice, garlic, cumin, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, cloves. Well, there are a few things in it, that’s for sure. The fur really flakes off, although I feel a little thicker compared to the meat in it, the spice blend feels restrained, but that’s OK. The steaks just retained their juiciness, probably because of the thicker fur they need more frying, and the meat can dry out easily as a result. Supposedly a salad made of purple and white cabbage contains a mixture of yogurt and sour cream and not homemade mayonnaise, it has a somewhat duller flavor, and the carrot rings attest to a quick, shallow homemade make. I expect a more intense fusion, this can be ensured with a larger amount of dressings. The flavor of the pomegranate can only be discovered with great benevolence. On the other hand, the aioli is almost perfect, although there will be more of it, all my complaints will be resolved soon.

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Saffron Sturgeon: Moroccan Haltagena of Hungarian sturgeon fillet, in a saffron-lemon sauce, topped with olives, green spices, zucchini, raisins, and almonds.

I dare not say there is only one type of saffron in this world, but I would prefer to have any version with it, so there are some same features in each version. One is that the fish is bathed in saffron, olive oil, lemon, paprika, ginger, coriander and parsley for some time. This alone makes half of the fish fillets. The other largely mandatory component is ras el hanout Well-known spice mixture: Nutmeg, black pepper, nutmeg flower, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, turmeric, cumin, allspice, coriander seeds, pepper, fenugreek, and hot pepper. Whether you put lemons and Moroccan olives in it is up to you, although without them creativity would not be complete, so it is worth following the tradition.

Cooking in a tagine means that steam is generated under a relatively high conical lid, so that the raw materials at the top of the pot are gently evaporated, while those at the bottom, which are in direct contact with the heat source, are gently boiled. This is a particularly suitable solution for fish, for example.

Here’s the recipe!

First, put the circled carrots on the bottom of the pan, and cut a lot of onions into thin rings.

Make the tomatoes separately: peel them, remove the inside, drain and pour the juice back into the pulp of the chopped seedless tomatoes, add garlic and nutmeg and cook over low heat for ten minutes.

When ready, place the precooked carrots, onions, and tomatoes in the bottom of the tagine, layering on top of each other in that order.

Cover with a tagine lid and bake in a 180 degree oven for thirty minutes until the onion, beet and tomato mixture is caramelized as needed. This will be the basic sauce on which to put the marinated fish, then pour the marinade and sprinkle with a few slices of lemon and a lot of black olives.

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Place them back in the oven with a lid and fry, which may take up to ten minutes to thicken. (The Ras El Hanout spice mix can be used in the marinade and base sauce, as desired).

Serve the couscous with the finished fish.

This will be the classic version, for which you will have to measure the other versions. Here at Babka, in savory black pottery, the tomato sauce is almost bubbling with heat, which is especially good for you. In it, the readiness of irregularly shaped pieces of fish is suitable. The sauce is nothing more than an ordinary tomato sauce, and tomato acids usually prevail, although an article on onions appears in some places, but almost nothing of the sweet, spicy and lively spice aisle is expected. Lemon and olive rings are also missing. Only zucchini bears some trace of saffron. Tomato acidity is not a substitute for citrus flavors, so the sauce is fairly flat.

The biggest flaw is that saffron is not overpowered as if it was forgotten. But still, in this – call it – blushing phrasing, it’s the right setting. “Tiszaörs” Tarhuna, I think it is produced there, no matter how it is advertised as an artisanal product, it does not seem to be. Boiled in juice flavored with turmeric, it is a very beautiful yellow, but unsalted, but golden raisins and half roasted almonds are in a hurry to help. It’s not very percussive on its own, but when mixed with tomato sauce, it makes more music.

When I say that this hunting is charmingly superficial, I do not intend this to be an insult in any way, but rather reinforce my suggestion that a babka is indeed an open house of only friends, good acquaintances, and family members, the unconditional believers behave. A gem on Bratislava Road.